Celebrated Nepali mountaineer Nirmal "Nimsdai" Purja has been confirmed dead after an avalanche hit his expedition on Broad Peak in Pakistan-occupied Kashmir's Karakoram region. The confirmation came from Elite Exped, the company associated with Purja, nearly two days after contact with the team was lost.
Purja, 43, had been leading a group attempting to summit Broad Peak, an 8,051-metre mountain located near K2, when the avalanche struck on Thursday afternoon. Authorities and expedition officials lost communication with all 10 members shortly afterward.
The team comprised six climbers from Nepal, along with mountaineers from Pakistan, Oman, China and the United States. Pakistani climber Sohail Sakhi was also part of the expedition.
Soon after the incident, rescue operations were initiated, with the Pakistan Alpine Club exploring the possibility of deploying helicopters to assist search teams in the difficult terrain.
Tributes pour in from across the world
Following the confirmation of his death, tributes began pouring in from the mountaineering community and political leaders.
In a statement shared on social media, Elite Exped described Purja as an extraordinary climber whose achievements and determination inspired millions across the globe. The company remembered him not only for his mountaineering accomplishments but also for his leadership and belief in the limitless potential of human beings.
Nepal Prime Minister Balen Shah also paid tribute to Purja and the other Nepali climbers who lost their lives in the tragedy. He said mountaineering symbolises courage, sacrifice and the relentless pursuit of human excellence.
According to Shah, although the climbers' journeys had come to an end, their legacy and contributions would continue to inspire future generations.
Who was Nirmal Purja?
Purja was widely regarded as one of the greatest high-altitude climbers of modern times. He achieved international fame in 2019 after completing an unprecedented challenge—scaling all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres in just over six months.
The achievement shattered the previous record, which had stood for several years, and cemented Purja's status as a legend in the mountaineering world.
His remarkable feat was later documented in the Netflix film 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible, which brought his story to a global audience.
Before entering professional mountaineering, Purja served for 16 years in the British armed forces. He began his military career with the Brigade of Gurkhas and later joined the Special Boat Service, one of the United Kingdom's most elite special forces units.
In recognition of his military service, he was awarded the title of Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) in 2018.
Purja's passion for climbing reportedly began after a trek to Everest Base Camp in 2012, an experience that transformed his life and inspired him to pursue mountaineering full-time.
Broad Peak: One of the world's toughest climbs
Standing at 8,051 metres, Broad Peak is the world's 12th-highest mountain and is located in the Karakoram range near K2. The peak is known for its unpredictable weather conditions, technical challenges and high-risk climbing routes.
The mountain was first successfully climbed in 1957 by an Austrian team comprising Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl.
For decades, Broad Peak has attracted elite mountaineers from around the world, but its harsh conditions have also made it one of the deadliest peaks to conquer.
With Purja's death, the mountaineering community has lost one of its brightest stars—a climber whose achievements redefined what was considered humanly possible.